History of
Tradition
The
House of Chanel, more commonly known as Chanel, is a Parisian
fashion house in France founded by Gabrielle Bonheur "Coco"
Chanel. According to Forbes, the privately held House of Chanel
is jointly owned by Alain Wertheimer and Gerard Wertheimer
who are the grandsons of the early Chanel partner Pierre Wertheimer.
The
company is owned by Luxottica. The perfume, accessory, and
skin line divisions have been made public in recent years.
Founded
in 1910, the small shop selling ladies headwear had moved
to the upmarket Rue Cambon within a year. The house became
especially famous with the elegant little black dress and
its signature Chanel No. 5 fragrance - so called because she
was given a set of five samples by the perfumeur Ernest Beaux.
She had instructed him to create a fragarance that should
be "All about scent and nothing about the bottle."
Out of the five scents samples, she preferred No. 5. "It
will bring me luck," she declared. Ernext Beaux also
created four other perfumes for Chanel; the are the little
known Bois d'Illes, No. 22, Cuir de Russie, and Gardenie.
However, Gardenie has recently been re-released by the House
in 2005 with international acclaim, a scent that fuses jasmine
with musks.
Chanel
revolutionized haute couture fashion by replacing the traditional
corset with the comfort and casual elegance of simple suits
and dresses. She introduced to the world her signature cardigan
jacket in 1925 and signature “little black dress” in 1926,
introducing a more sultry and seductive definition to “sexy.”
She had numerous other major successes that changed the fashion
industry including the ever popular "'Chanel suit'",
an elegant creation composed of a knee-length skirt and trim,
boxy jacket, traditionally made of wooven wool with black
sewing trim and gold buttons, worn with large costume-pearl
necklaces. Elite women of high socities around the world began
to flock to the now legendary Rue Cambon boutique to commission
couture outfits from her. The House of Chanel became an icon
of elegance and from then on, the name “Chanel” became synonymous
to elegance, wealth, and elitism, as well as the ultimate
sign of French high class, la coquettrie.
After
Chanel No. 5 was launched in 1921, Coco Chanel's fashions
became even more well-known and were purchased by the high
flyers of London and Paris society alike. Chanel took to living
at the Ritz Paris, and her suite of residence has become famous
and is now named the "Coco Chanel Suite."
Chanel
is also known for its quilted fabric which also has a "secret"
quilting pattern sewn at the back to keep the material strong.
This material is used for clothing and accessories alike.
During the early 1970s London socialite millionairess Diane
Boulting-Casserley Vandelli was ambassador to the brand, making
it ever more popular amongst the European jet-set and upper
classes. The brand is now headed by German-born designer Karl
Lagerfeld, who had previously designed for the House of Fendi,
where his most memorable achievement was the creation of the
signature "FF" logo print (referred to as Zucca)
commonly used on handbags.
The
Coco Chanel Era
Coco
Chanel, founder of the House of Chanel, began her fashion
career in 1910. She heralded new designs and revolutionized
the fashion industry by going “back to basics,” incorporating
elegance, class, and originality. Under her tight reign from
1910-1971, Coco Chanel held the title as ‘Chief Designer’
until her death on January 10, 1971.
[edit]
1910-1932
In
1910, Chanel opens a shop, under the name of ‘Chanel Modes’
at 21 rue Cambon in Paris, to create hats. Her hats were worn
by famous French actresses which helped establish her reputation.
Chanel introduced in 1913 women’s sportswear at her new boutique
in Deauville, France. Her line of jersey clothes changed not
only women’s relationships with their bodies, but also with
their way of life, or the French savoir vivre. It became an
immediate success.
Her
fashion became known in 1915 throughout France that prioritized
freedom of movement by passing ostentatious and useless things
in her designs. She affirmed the House’s style of authentic
and naturally seductive with fluid and comfortable lines.
She then opened her first couture house in Biarritz, France
to introduce her other fashion lines.
1921
saw the introduction of the first Chanel perfume, No. 5. It
was greeted internationally by high society ladies as their
choice when going out during the night. “La Société
des Parfums Chanel’’ was founded in 1924 to produce and sell
perfumes and beauty products, after the critically acclaimed
No. 5, a perfume that commands the highest sales in history.
1924
also greeted the first Chanel costume jewelry collection that
Harper’s Bazzar greeted as “one of the most revolutionary
designs of our time.”
In
1928, Chanel introduced the ‘little black dress,’ greeted
by Vogue as the ‘new uniform of the modern woman.’ That same
year, Chanel introduced the classic tweed. Inspired by visits
to Scotland with the Duke of Westminster, Chanel was inspired
and created her first tweed suits.
Chanel
premiered a fabulous exhibition of fine jewelry in 1932 dedicated
to the diamond, featuring designs which became the talk of
the town for their simplicity and originality. Several of
the pieces, including the ‘Comet’ and ‘Fountain’ necklaces
were re-introduced by Chanel in 1993.
1935-1981
Chanel
reached the peak of her fame in 1935 when she employed 4,000
workers and owned numerous buildings throughout France. In
1939, she retired from fashion design and closed her popular
couture house, prompting protests from New York high society
to the Parisian aristocracy. Only her perfumes and accessories
were sold at Chanel’s boutiques.
Coming
out of fashion retirement at the age of 71, Chanel re-opened
the couture house. Her first show received international acclaim,
with her signature jersey suit being introduced that bore
her favorite number: 5. In 1955, Chanel introduced the quilted
bag with the shoulder strap, a bag that shook the fashion
world. It became so popular the first year, she had to decline
numerous requests due to the lack of time to painstakingly
manufacture each one by her skilled artisans. That same year,
Chanel launched her first eau de toilette for men, Pour Monsieur.
In
1957 at the Fashion Awards in Dallas, Chanel and her Spring
collection received the Fashion Oscar. The fashion world applauded
her as the ‘most influential designer of the twentieth century.’
After
dozens of other internationally acclaimed collections, Chanel
introduced in 1970 a new perfume by the name of No. 19, after
her birthday date. On January 10, 1971, Coco Chanel died,
ending an era of revolutionary fashion that would still be
the classic model fashion designers today find inspiration
in. Her posthumous Spring collection enjoyed considerable
success.
However,
her influence did not pass with her death. Other posthumous
projects came to light a few years. In 1974, the House of
Chanel launched Cristalle eau de toilette, which was in the
workings when Coco Chanel was alive. 1978 saw the launch of
the first non-couture, prêt-à-porter line and
worldwide distribution of accessories. In 1981, Chanel launched
a new eau de toilette for men, Antaeus.
The Iconic Logo
The Chanel logo is an overlapping
double 'C' - one facing forward and the other facing backward.
This comes from the name Coco Chanel."Coco" is the
nickname frequently used by Chanel founder, Gabrielle Chanel.
The logo was not trademarked until during the first openings
of Chanel stores. Chanel is currently trying to deal with
their logo being illegally used on cheaper goods, especially
on fake handbags. Countries said to be producing great numbers
of fake Chanel handbags are Vietnam, Thailand and China. An
authentic Chanel handbag retails for around $1500, while fakes
usually cost around $60, creating a demand for the signature
style at a cheaper price.
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